Last spring, UNTAG teamed up with the University of Pforzheim to teach a pretty special interdisciplinary course: Shaping Identities: Designing Gender-Expression Accessories. The goal? Getting future designers to look past traditional norms, think about the full spectrum of gender and put sustainability first. With students from all kinds of backgrounds, we dug into culture, history and hands-on design, so everyone could create wearable accessories that express gender identity.
(scroll down for images from the course)
Why "Shaping Identities" matters
This course gave us the chance to pass our knowledge of gender-expression design on to the next generation. We know that design has the power to influence how people express themselves, and we wanted to share our love for inclusive, thoughtful design. So we showed students how to make accessories that celebrate diversity, challenge gender stereotypes and respect cultural backgrounds, while being kind to the planet.
Exploring the spectrum of identity
We started with a deep look at gender diversity in different cultures. In the first few sessions, students explored historical and cultural stories from all over the world. They learned that many societies have recognised identities outside the male-female binary for a long time. A few examples:
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In Indigenous North American cultures, many tribes honour Two-Spirit people: people who embody both masculine and feminine qualities. They often have unique social or spiritual roles, and they challenge the binary view of gender.
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In South Asia, the Hijra community is a third-gender group with a long and respected history in countries like India, Pakistan and Bangladesh. Hijras are still pushing for broader social acceptance, but they're widely recognised in many cultural spaces.
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Then there's fa'afafine in Samoan culture, a gender identity for people who take on both male and female roles. Fa'afafine are celebrated in Samoan society, which shows how gender diversity is embraced in communities around the world.
These stories gave the students new perspectives and showed them that gender diversity has existed across cultures for a long time. That helped them see why it matters to design in a way that respects and celebrates cultural diversity.
From ideas to creations
Once the cultural background was clear, it was time to get creative! The course took students from sketch to final prototype, and every project looked for ways to push past traditional design boundaries. We encouraged them to go bold, like a scarf that celebrates cultural symbols or a statement piece of jewellery that questions traditional gender norms.
Every design also had to be sustainable. We focused on eco-friendly materials and showed students that the future of fashion and accessories isn't only about innovative design. It's also about making choices that are kind to the planet. That made things a bit more complex and a lot more creative, because students had to think about materials, sourcing and the impact of production.
Workshops on cultural sensitivity
A big part of the course was about cultural sensitivity in design. When you draw so much inspiration from cultural symbols and identities, you need to know the difference between respectful appreciation and appropriation. Using case studies, we looked at examples where designers got it right, and where they didn't. We talked about how to honour cultural traditions responsibly, which gave students a more thoughtful and ethical way to work with inspiration from other cultures.
From prototype to final presentation
At the end of the course, students brought their sketches to life. With tools and sustainable materials in hand, they made physical prototypes of their designs. Every piece got its own story. Some were inspired by traditional crafts like macramé or embroidery, others by new techniques like AI-generated patterns. The creativity was amazing, and each project turned into its own exploration of gender identity, culture and inclusivity.
The students then showed their final creations in a presentation. From a rethought chest binder to fashion-forward headwear, their designs brought fresh perspectives to gender-expression fashion.
A future of inclusive design
For us, this course was more than a class. It was a step towards more inclusive, sustainable and thoughtful design. We hope every student walked away with new skills and a new way of looking at design. At UNTAG, we keep creating spaces where all identities are seen and respected.
And this is only the beginning. We'll keep finding new ways to make the world more inclusive, so keep an eye out for future collabs and projects. Who knows? You might spot some of these amazing designs out in the real world, expressing identities one accessory at a time.
